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THE PLACE: Napa-Sonoma North, a blend of wine store, wine bar and restaurant, is the original Napa-Sonoma, in the Plumgate center. (There’s also a newer, larger Napa-Sonoma South near Longley Lane.)

On any given evening at Napa-Sonoma North (let’s just call it Napa-Sonoma for our purposes), you’ll find a slice of affluent Reno (of all ages) sitting down to wine, conviviality, and friendly, youthful service supplied without any hipster nonsense.

THE LOOK: Napa-Sonoma is composed in warm earth tones with some wine country accents (but nothing cheesy). There’s a raised dining area that can be curtained off for private gatherings, the main dining room with a big bar, and a quieter bar and seats next to the retail wine racks.

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NAPA-SONOMA NORTH: BREAKFAST

Address: 550 W. Plumb Lane, in the Plumgate center

Phone: 775-826-0595

Breakfast hours: 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday; 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday

On the web:www.napa-sonoma.com

What’s around $10 or less: All but one of the “eggs your way” platters, most of the omelets, and all but one of the House Favorites and Benedicts

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There also are flat-screens playing sports, but Napa-Sonoma is far from a sports beer. A deal on Duckhorn is more likely to elicit cheers than what’s happening in the game.

THE MEAL: If I haven’t already made it obvious — Napa-Sonoma is an evening spot.

But the place just started serving breakfast on Saturday and Sunday. So, one recent weekend, a friend and I bestir ourselves and head over to see what Napa-Sonoma is like when the sun shines.

The menu offers a good morning mix of omelets, “eggs your way” platters, Benedicts, and “house favorites” like a breakfast burrito, French toast, and biscuits and gravy.

I’m quickly sold on a jack cheese and prime rib chili omelet finished with a dollop of crème fraîche that ups the gooey, melty pleasure of the dish.

My friend also is quick to choose. She’s a biscuits and gravy devotee (and really, who isn’t it?), so she does the plate featuring biscuits draped with sausage and potato gravy, plus three strips of bacon and two eggs over easy.

The dish celebrates the confluence of rich gravy, oozy egg yolk and soft, yielding biscuit, with a bit of bacon crunch.

Mixing your food together? In this case, absolutely. Giving your friend half your gravy-drenched biscuit? Yes on that, too.

KUDOS: It’s pleasant to sit in Napa-Sonoma in the morning with the sun slanting through the windows. Service, as always, is friendly and attentive. The food is generously portioned without being overwhelming. And those biscuits are dangerous.

QUIBBLES: Not a quibble but a note to self: Restrain yourself, at least once in a while, around those biscuits.

ALTERNATIVES: Vegetarian Caprese omelet, ham and eggs, chorizo and potato quesadilla, breakfast sandwich, French toast.

RETURN TRIP?: Did I say biscuits?

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