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THE PLACE: For Reno locals (and many visitors), Rapscallion Seafood House & Bar needs no introduction. The Wells Avenue restaurant turns 40 in 2017; it was among the first in landlocked Reno to specialize in seafood.

THE LOOK: Pat Kuleto, famed restaurateur and restaurant designer, created the original look of Rapscallion, an expanse of brass, brick and polished wood, much of which remains today.

Renovations in the past six months have made bar seating easier to navigate, have brought more light and room to the main dining area, and have made the private dining spaces more stylish and inviting.

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RAPSCALLION SEAFOOD HOUSE & BAR: LATE HAPPY HOUR

Address: 1555 S. Wells Ave.

Phone: 775-323-3211

Late happy hour: 8:30 p.m. to close Monday through Saturday in the bar only (regular happy hour is 4 to 6:30 p.m. in the bar these days)

On the web:www.rapscallion.com

What’s around $10 or less on happy hour menu: Everything

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THE MEAL: The bar at Rapscallion, with its landscape scene rendered in stained-glass on the back bar, has long been a gathering place. For a while now, the bar (only) has offered two happy hours: from 4 to 6:30 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. to close, Monday through Saturday.

The other evening, after a 12-hour day at work, I join an old friend for a bite (and a side of gossip) during late happy hour at Rapscallion.

We decide to share three plates that arrive together.

A Certified Angus Beef burger, the meat ground in house, is nicely cooked to medium-rare, as requested. The kitchen lets the flavor of the beef speak for itself, without add-ins or heavy seasoning. The burger beds down in house fries at once crisp and yielding.

Those same fries become the chips in a half-order of Rapscallion fish and chips. A small ramekin of ketchup and one divided between house cocktail and tartar sauces — a sort of condiment yin and yang — stand sentry. (I would have liked a lemon wedge to apply a few spurts of juice.)

We finish our late happy hour repast with wedges of grilled chicken quesadilla surrounding heaps of guacamole and pico de gallo.

KUDOS: Good portions, good prices and good coffee (unlike lots of folks, I can drink coffee before bed and still sleep the sleep of the just).

QUIBBLES: Not a quibble but an observation: With late happy hour starting at 8:30 p.m. (and with the menu such a deal), you might find yourself staying later than you’d intended.

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May is National Hamburger Month. We're celebrating with a look at the best Reno-Sparks burgers through the years. Johnathan L. Wright/RGJ

ALTERNATIVES: Arugula, mandarin orange and California beet salad; calamari Rapscallion with a trio of dipping sauces; pork pot stickers; Baja-style fish tacos; and Certified Angus Beef prime rib sliders.

During the happy hours, draft beer is $1 off, house wines and well cocktails are $5, and lemon drops, cosmopolitans and appletinis are $6.

RETURN TRIP?: Here’s a thought: I’ll eat and drink through main happy hour, stay on at the bar during the interregnum, then continue during late happy hour.

Do you live in Northern Nevada or have ties to it? Do you care about what you put in your mouth? Then subscribe to The Reno Taste, a free newsletter bringing you the best in food in drink from Reno and beyond.

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