Tiny haunt offers flavor of France

By Marnie McArthur, reno.com
October 11, 2006

Ah, for an evening in Paris. How about a stroll along the Truckee River? It’s not La Seine but for a moment, pretend. Then turn half a block north on West Street, duck in the doorway of a 100-year-old building and voilà! Inside Beaujolais Bistro, there’s no need to pretend.

Delicious smells fill the casual, cozy room. French cabaret posters grace old brick walls. You settle into a plush tapestry banquette and survey the Paris-like scene: soft lighting, white table cloths, artistic plates of food served seamlessly and enjoyed eagerly. The smiles and pleasant chatter can mean only one thing – these customers are having a wonderful time!

Beaujolais Bistro (www.beaujolaisbistro.com) is French to the core; not pretentious, just fine. Chef/owner Bill Gilbert hails from French-Canadian heritage and the family spoke French at home. His interest in French cooking and his talent matured with 10 years as the sous chef for mentor Jean Pierre D’Oignon at La Cheminee in Lake Tahoe (Jean Pierre now owns Le Bistro in Incline Village). Chef Gilbert opened Beaujolais Bistro in November of 2002.

The cozy, 40-seat room was half full when we arrived and filled quickly, creating a delightful hum over soft French music. I had checked the menu online and found some dishes the same, but many new ones as well. The chef adds new items as he pleases (how French!) and also offers a Prix Fixe menu paired with French and California wines.

With so much to choose from, I was glad we were three and agreed to share. Two of us vied for the Braised Lamb Shanks with Moroccan spices, a selection on the Prix Fixe as well as the regular menu. I deferred to my companion and ordered the Prix Fixe with a seafood stew entrée – not a classic Bouillabaisse, but the chef’s tasty interpretation. I also opted for the wine pairing. You can have it either way – with wine for $80 or without for $45. Cheaper, yes, but why would you? The chef knows his food and wines and I was eager to try his selections.

While we waited for our appetizers my friends ordered a Trimbach Pinot Gris ($8) – lovely, citrus fruit, clean, crisp and dry. I began to regret I had not done the same when my first wine arrived – a Zind-Humbrecht Herrenweg Riesling, bright gold in color with a slight honey sweetness (not cloying) and lots of flavor. My friends asked for a sip. Now who was jealous?

To my disappointment, the first course on the Prix Fixe, a seafood sausage with sherry sauce, was all gone. How could this be; it was only 7 p.m.! The substitution, though not the salmon mousse described, was a very fresh salmon tartar sprinkled with capers. Enjoyable, but the wine overpowered the delicate fish flavor. Both were delicious, but better separate. C’est la vie.

As appetizers, my companions selected Escargots a la Bourguignonne and a salad of crab, avocado, mango and cucumber. The word on the escargot: “Not much flavor except garlic and butter. I’ve had better.” The salad, however, was a winner and why not with those ingredients – very fresh crab, ripe avocado, fragrant mango (the creaminess suggested a Keitt, my favorite mango in the fall.) The presentation was gorgeous and we made quick work of it. While we sipped our wines, my second course arrived, along with more wine. This time, a Mayacamas Chardonnay (too cold to really taste) paired with marinated tomatoes and cave-aged Emmenthaler. The thin-sliced cheese was exceptional – pungent tangy and flavorful. I could have eaten much more of this but was glad I didn’t as more food was on the way.

Main courses were beautifully presented – braised Moroccan lamb shanks, Muscovy Duck Breasts with Apples and Calvados (an apple brandy), and my fish stew of shrimp, Petrale sole, scallops, mussels and chantarelles in a red wine sauce. The sauce was thin and delicately flavored, almost too delicate. The mussels and chantarelles were very tender and flavorful, but I found the other seafood a bit firm for my taste, though very fresh.

A large lamb shank presented a dramatic picture and the fork-tender meat easily pulled from the bone. I found this delicious, but one friend, who has lived in Turkey, Indonesia, and other countries with spicy foods, would have liked more spice. Where we all agreed was the duck. “The best duck I’ve ever had!” said one friend. Thick slices of tender, lean meat were perfectly cooked and served with a complex sauce reduction of subtle apple and ginger flavors that infused the meat and accompanying thin carrot slices. Yummy!

A word about the wines. With my seafood, I received two glasses. Not that I planned to drink both, and a pleasant woman at the next table said she would be happy to help if I couldn’t finish one. The choices were a French Bordeaux with some age on it (1996) and a Beringer Howell Mountain Merlot (2000). Tasting these side by side you can really see the difference between the French and California styles. The French was deep, earthy and smooth with fruit flavors way in the background; the California, a young upstart, full of forward fruit and strong tannins still showing. I prefer the French, but at least one friend loved the Beringer. Viva la difference! And then, there was the Old Vine Zinfandel ordered by my Zin-loving companion (around $9). This wine was so special I regret we didn’t make note of the winery name before downing the smooth, deep peppery vin. If you’re a Zin lover, be sure to look for ‘Old Vine’ on the list when you go there. There will only be one.

As part of my Prix Fixe, lovely lemon crepes with raspberry compote arrived for dessert. Soft, tender crepes smothered with fresh, sweet berries, just a hint of sugar (if any) and a few nuts in the filling for a little crunch. Delightful! One friend insisted on the chocolate mousse, which was smooth and fluffy, but for serious dark chocolate lovers, on the light end of the chocolate spectrum.

To finish the meal, coffees were served all around. Although I was tempted by an excellent dessert wine list with some interesting ports, I’ll save that for another visit with a designated driver. And there will be another visit, I assure you. Beaujolais Bistro is a special place. Reno diners, seek it out. You’ll save a plane trip to Paris and say c’est bon!